Thursday, 22 September 2016

And on to Corfu


From Eufimia on Zakynthos we sailed to Ithaca – not far and getting used to places mentioned in Homer’s writing  by now. Anchored in a beautiful small bay near an islet. There were not many other yachts and most moved in the afternoon so we shared it with a few overnighters including Shalimar from Auckland. Swam and walked on the beach which was mostly marble. Stunning.  After lunch the next day we motored in the morning and sailed in the afternoon (typical Ionian) to Tranquility Bay - Nidri on Lefkas island. The sailing was so good we passed Sivota which was a pity and headed up the Meganisi Channel. A couple of nights in Nidri, then through the Lefkas canal to Preveza on the mainland where we rediscovered the Mermaid tavern which has now been altered to incorporate a mini market.  That spoilt the authentic Greek feel somewhat. Again we took advantage of the Scotsman’s anchorage and dinghied in to town. Looked like showers, so back to the boat to get jackets and close hatches. We have not been used to clouds or rain.

Preveza to Emerald Bay Antipaxos was a short day and we arrived as a flotilla was leaving so shared the bay with one other yacht. Emerald bay is well named. Beautiful clear water with caves in the rocks. The beach is not great but by swimming off the yacht it was just magic. Not really an overnight stop, but we managed it. Again, just a short hop to Paxos and anchored at Mongonisi. A very sheltered bay with Theo’s tavern which has been there forever.  We are passing many lovely anchorages now but there is just not enough time to experience every one.  From Mongonisi we went in to Gaios for a look before carrying on to Lakka at the top of the island. Second night in Lakka we got an electrical storm at 3am. A yacht ran over our chain and dislodged the anchor so we motored around the anchorage staying out of trouble until daylight. Other yachts were not so lucky as they dragged individually or together. We re anchored at daylight and left at 2pm for Corfu. Halfway there we saw another storm approaching so headed for End Bay on the mainland. A really good small shelter – just enough for one yacht and we were lucky. Many yachts were leaving a very nearby anchorage before the storm. With local knowledge (I had been there many times before) we stayed until the storm passed. (They are not fun to be out in) and we arrived at Gouvia marina late afternoon.

We are still at Gouvia. Panos is doing some work on the boat. When I met him in 2004 he was just starting working for himself and mine was his first job. Renovating an anchor winch motor. He now has a staff of 17.


Ithaca

Ithaca - moveable floating structure from an Italian superyacht. How some people live

Meganisi Channel

Robbies boat off to start the Southern Ionian Regatta. Note the cannon on the foredeck. Lethal

Emerald Bay

Emerald bay

Emerald Bay

Friday, 9 September 2016

Olympic Games, End of the Golden Weather. What a difference a day makes

From Pilos we sailed to Katakolo - again on the mainland and a stop for cruise ships who visit Olympia. Again we stayed in the "Scotsmans" anchorage (outside the marina) overnight and went in to the marina next morning. We are becoming used to having power and as much good water as we want. Katakolo is pleasant enough - a typical Greek foreshore town full of tavernas and tourist shops (well more tourist shops than usual). Got the outboard fixed. - No water in the cooling again. Met a kiwi boat - Zee Kiwi from Omaha - 49ft Fountaine Pajot catamaran and had drinks on board in the evening.
Train to Olympia left from the marina 9am the next morning. It only returned to Pirgos but that is later in the story.
Another historical day at Olympia - imagining how life was like in ancient Greece under Roman rule. In those times the rich influential and powerful had it easy. Times don't change much do they? It was easy to picture life back then with the stadium and surrounding temples, houses etc. Temple to Zeus being one of the buildings. There have been several earthquakes since the Olympic site was abandoned but there is still a lot to see.
Train back stopped at Pirgos - so we did some shopping. Missed the connecting bus and waited 1.5 hours for the next bus. Fun sitting in an airconditioned coffee shop while everything els was closed on a Saturday afternoon.
Had drinks with an English couple - Miss Fortune - Moody 36
Next day (Sunday) Filled with diesel and had a relaxing day with a meal out at a Taverna for fathers day. Greek restaurant food varies from excellent beyond belief to terrible - beyond belief. This one was the latter. Veal steaks which the poor dog had to endure.
Zakynthos - our next destination saw us at Southern Zakynthos which is mostly a turtle reserve. We did not see any but it is a nice enough anchorage. early hours of the morning a thunder storm started. Our intention was to go West to Vromo, and Wreck Bay , (famous on all Greek tourist photos)  and the Blue Grotto but the wind was against us so we went East and headed for Cephalonia. Got most of the way there and the wind went North. we turned around and sheltered in Zakynthos town. (Again the Scotsmans anchorage)
Rain, Thunder, Lightning, Hail, (yes, hail) Wind, Waterspout, we got it all plus a near knockdown while safely anchored in the town. Read 42 knots when we checked the windspeed but must have been more in the two severe gusts.
This happens when the upper air temperature is less than the sea temperature.

Someone is looking after Moondance.

Walked around the town - again like most Greek foreshore towns except it was rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1953. many large ferries coming and going. Very near where we were anchored.
Raining again today, so between showers we used our usual pastime of putting patches on the dinghy.
A few superyachts came in presumably for shelter. One (Titan) owned by a sheik and valued at 30M. How the other half live.
We are now anchored in Eufimia Cephalonia (in the town basin). Once we are tied up to a town wharf Raewyn does not want to leave so we will be here tomorrow. It is Raewyn's preference to free anchor in a sheltered bay with the anchor well dug in. It has become a standard saying "Are we safe Raewyn?"

Katakolo



The stadium

On your marks

Get set
Transport to market on Saturday

Olympia