Onwards From Rome To Isola D' Ischia and the Amalfi Coast

 

Leaving the Tiber River was easy as we motored from the marina at the Ostia Bridge to the sea. The River is lined with marinas who moor the yachts up to 3 deep on both sides of the river. There is an island in the middle for the most part and we took the starboard channel.  The marinas eventually gave way to shacks where nets were arranged on screens to be dropped into the sea. In places the shallow alarm sounded but we had no less than ½ metre of clearance.

 River Tiber

It was a good to be on the Sea and starting sailing properly. Also a time to further check the systems  on Moondance. The afternoon of 15 May saw us safely anchored off the beach at Anzio. The WW2 history of Anzio is extensive and there are museums and graveyards that include New Zealand’s Involvement.

The first few days were overcast and cold. Not at all like late spring.

Our next stop was unplanned – we had intended to sail down the coast, but with several small islands not far off, we made a detour to Ponza. Anchoring in Cala Inferno, near the main town of Ponza. Our first glimpse of the azure blue that is the Mediterranean, we could see the bottom clearly in 7 metres  of water. A bit cool yet for swimming. 

                        The geology of the island is interesting with multi coloured rock formations.

The Wine carrying boat.  I kid you not. That is the description in the Marine Guide. It anchored extremely close to the rocks to discharge it's cargo.

Town of Ponza

We stayed an extra day before moving on to Ventotene - harbour Cala Rossano. There are a few anchoring options, and we opted for the “marina” as wind and rain were forecast. It is expensive and not the safest of anchorages but worked out well for us. The town ashore is delightful, again expensive and caters for diving and tourism from nearby Naples. Our assistance from the locals was interesting and they were all very helpful. Trying to describe a rat trap was a mission. (We had previously had a rat on board for a few hours in past years and wanted to be prepared.

Descriptions of cats catching “big mice” had no effect. (We had not brought our phone interpreter with us. A young girl knew enough English to interpret Rat. Then it was bait, cage or “snap”. Eureka. Snap was obtained – mille grande – very large.

After 3 nights the high winds and cloud abated and we departed for Isola D’Ischia.

Ventotene Marina 

Isla San Stefano. A former penal Island 

 Little Toot does exist

WW2 props for making a movie.

Restaurants in the cliffs. Large trucks drive this route to get on the ferries.

Isola D’Ishia is a large Island (one of 2 (Procida being the other) in the Eastern Bay of Naples. A permit is required to free anchor in Zone C which covers most of the Island. I had applied for a permit before leaving Rome, but got no reply. I applied again on leaving Ventotne and got a reply when approaching the Island. In Italian and requiring 4 forms of identification and proof of payment. 

A call to Gio ( a philosophy friend) resulted in her phoning the office in Naples. The forms in English were sent and completed that day. The permit was received 4 days later when we arrived in Sorrento.

The anchorage underneath The Aragon Castle Ischia is protected on all sides by the causeway that connects the Island to the main Island.

First swim of the season – to check the anchor as we were in a shallow rocky area and moved. The water was not a shock.

Getting around

We took a bus from the anchorage to the Port. 4k.  Getting off our tickets were checked. We had none. It is difficult to buy tickets as they appear to be sold only at bus stations. The inspector insisted on a fine of 49.50 Euros each. 99Euros. We had been fined 7Euros each in Fiumacino before I bought tickets at the accidental trip to the airport. I objected – he insisted showing the price of a fine on the back of a book of tickets.– I objected and we settled on a fine of 10Euros. And we walked the 4k back.

Visiting the Castle

The long causeway joins both Islands. Entrance to the Castle is impressive along a corridor dug into the rock to the elevator. Thank heaven for that, as it is a long way to the top.  I have shown photos of the history and places of interest. Not included is the armoury which has an extensive display of suits of armour, early weapons of warfare and torture. 

Creating Modern Art from Ancient

A lot of the Castle is built around solid rock

After Ischia  - The Amalfi Coast

Across the Bay of Naples is the Amalfi Coast with touristowns of Sorrento, Positano, Ravello, and Amalfi to name a few.

Our first stop was Sorrento where we spent the night outside the port and under the cliffs of the town. Many ferries leave here for Capri and Naples and the wash can be fun. They take no notice of yachts and travel at high speed as soon as they leave port. Lots of small yachts also take passengers to the ”Blue Grotto” Cave.

Vesuvius from Sorrento

Around the Cape, and down the other Coast we went past Positano to Amalfi.

Two Cruise liners were in the Bay disgorging their passengers into Amalfi where some took tours to Pompeii and other places, but most appeared to stay in the small town. It was very crowded. There are many people travelling at the moment and ey arrive  Amalfi by ferry and bus from Salerno and Naples. The town did not appear to have changed at all since the last time we visited.   

 

Atrani – the next Bay from Amalfi where we anchored. The tunnel is the road

 

Pogerola – a town we visited to have lunch and get away from Amalfi. The short road to Ravello is closed as a bus ran of the cliff and damaged the road. The detour was 1 1/2 hours, or take a taxi. The driver to Pogerola must have been an ex rally car driver also as it was a hair raising ride both up and down at speed. Last time we had people vowing they were going to die, and being sick. Real fair ground stuff.  

 

The Tribulations of Rome

 The comfort and attractions of Rome have proven irresistible as we enjoy the relaxation of free marina living in a very expensive city. But that is not what sailing is about, nor why we are here.

We have had the luxury of doing lots of odd jobs at a leisurely pace without the pressure to move or incurring extra cost. The weather has been mixed. Cool on arrival with some wet days, but mostly the Mediterranean summer of clear blue skies and it is getting warmer.  

We have two neighbours moored outside of us. Enrico and Thomatso. Thomatso is the European representative for Zespri and travels to Tauranga NZ (pre covid) 5 times a year. Now less frequently but still has a very strong connection to NZ. Small world indeed.

Some of the issues we have had.

Two sparrows thought the mast was a great place for their spring assignation. We had to terminate their rental with minimal notice. We did give them warning by playing Barry Manilow music, but did not resort to sprinklers. The mast also had a wrap with the genoa at the top. Riggers sorted that and the sparrows. The sparrows in the boom succumbed to sprinklers. Nests only were disturbed and last we heard, the tenants had taken up residence in a better suburb to raise their young.  

Some of the running rigging also needed replacing. Raewyn showed her feminine side by replacing most of the kitchen utensils -  pots and pans etc with new and we had field day at the markets. Run by Bangla Deshi’s on Thursday in the same manner as Turkey with everything on sale for cash only. We bought heaps of “stuff”. We stumbled upon the markets by mistake as we had caught the bus in to town (Fiumicino) when it passed the markets. Travelling experience gave recognition instantly to the existence of the structures as markets.

                                                                 Pizza Restaurant    

                                                                  Checking The Rig                                                               

Drivers.  It is essential for Truck, Bus and taxi drivers to be on their phones. Optional for everyone else. However, No Road Cones in Sight. It is not an industry here.  There are very few Electric Vehicles including Hybrid. Maybe Elon does not speak Italian or Italy has no emission controls? 

Bureaucracy day.

Checking in at Guardia Costeria. (Coastguard) I had made a note to print the insurance documents before going to the authorities, but had not found a print shop. I turned up at Coastguard with all the documents. A group discussion started on how to deal with what I wanted. Doors opened and closed, people were consulted and eventually a man knew what to do. He spotted the original name on the insurance documents immediately. A correct copy in emails on my phone was not sufficient and he wanted to see a hard copy. I went to Vodafone to renew our internet and asked if they could print some documents. Madam Lash insisted they could not, when an English speaking Angel (presumably the manager) appeared and was more than happy to print for me. She also sold me a 3 month contract for unlimited wifi 100E) I returned to the Coastguard just before closing at mid day and the process was completed within an hour. I had my Constituto.   

A day out at Ostia Antica

A blue sky day we walked across the Ostia bridge and along the motorway to the admission gate. 5000+ steps and 18E each. The ruins were extensive and interesting. To imagine life on the Tiber more than 2000 years ago.  We had lunch at a restaurant at the gate and got a bus home. Part of exploration is the realisation that there is often an easier way. 

                                                                           Antica Ostia

                                                              Restaurant. Full of statues

 

                                                                          Doric Ionic or?

                                                             The Whole World’s A Stage

                                                                    Arrivederci Roma

We are due to leave Rome on Monday. We have had a great experience with lots of help, luck and fortune. Rather tired of waiting for a bus, or in one instance  -  taking the wrong bus.