Road construction - its everywhere
Only in Albania
Monday, 27 May 2024
Further Photos Out and About in Albania
Road construction - its everywhere
Out and About in Albania
My intention had been to sail the Albanian Coast as far as Montenegro and Beyond. To legally complete the journey I had done in Checkmate all those years ago.
This time luck was again against me as the weather persisted from the North. This made Sarande the perfect anchorage. I am too old and wise to battle the elements without good reason as a solo sailor.
I did manage part of the sail as far as Palermos (where the photos of one of many of Ali Pasha's Castles was taken. Although a pretty heat shaped promontory, this anchorage proved a bit dodgy to me with hard rock bottom - not good holding and not enough swinging room in the small cove. After dark I decided to seek a better anchorage and headed further up the bay. A fish farm was between me and the anchorage - oh what fun at night. I dodged that and ended up against a very agricultural concrete dock. A German couple took my lines and with hastily arranged fenders I spent the night safely against the wharf. The huge, active cockroaches on the dock were far from inspiring and I sprayed my lines with an Albanian pesticide that would be illegal anywhere else in the world except Thailand. The lines still smell after a heavy drenching of rain a few nights later.
The next day, I attempted to go North, but it was uncomfortable with wind and swell against me, so I turned around and anchored at Gjiri I Spiles for the afternoon. A little rolly, but pleasant bay with lots of dayboats taking tourists out. The wind continued to be favourable, so I decided Sarande would be more sheltered in these conditions and had a wonderful sail back to Sarande, passing the U Boat entrance and old fortifications.
I was approaching the Sarande anchorage at 9pm, and trying to locate a light that indicates a large shallow patch extending out from the habour. At that time a police patrol boat passed close by me going the other way. I thought his direction was strange as the police dock is close to my anchorage, so I checked the chart. Sarande has two anchrages - One the superyachts generally use, and the other us by ferries, superyachts and small yachts checking in to Albania. I was between the two in a channel that rapidly ends with shallow rock. I turned 180 degrees and followed the police boat. Phew. Locating the light I had been looking for earlier, I turned for the anchorage. Lesson learned.
Anchoring, I ended up a bit close to a catamaran who had shifted to where I had been anchored previously. How dare he take my spot. So, with two more attempts to get a good holding, I eventually settled and am still here some days later.
The better part of cruising
Trevor and Robertina anchored behind me early the next morning. Trevor (US) and Robbie (Croatian) - watching had dived and freed my anchor a few days earlier. We went out to a pizza restaurant they were heading for before diving on the anchor. 3 large pizzas, 4 large beers and soft drinks in a restaurant overlooking the harbour cost less than NZ$55.00
Security here is great. We tie our dinghys to the Police dock and enter the town through immigration. No queuing. There is an air of satisfaction as we pass the day trippers who are all having their passports checked coming and going. Immigration is open 24/7 and we come and go as we please with no public access.
Thursday, 16 May 2024
Photos of Albania
Albanian Adventures
To log in some schengen credits I have exited Grcece and headed for Albania, six miles away.
Leaving Greece
I had a serious health issue with eating dodgy chicken. This persisted for at least 4 days with lack of energy, aching joints, and the obvious dysentery. No fun at all. On the positive side I probably lost weight.
I had unknowingly broken a cardinal rule of not buying my cruising tax before going in the water by quite a few days. Punishable with a 796E fine minimum. It was with some trepidation I organised to face the authorities to check out.
The yacht yard kindly printed off the necessary forms the night before. I find them a nightmare to negotiate.
7.30am The Post Office opens. I borrowed a bike for the day and headed there to queue before opening. A lot of transactions are paid at the PO and queues can be long - It was the first opening day after 5 days of Easter closing and I was already 2 days later leaving than planned.
That completed, I pedalled off to the Port Authority. First stage completed - then Immigration for the all important Exit stamp. Back to Port Authority for more paper work to satisfy Customs. Then off to Customs and finally back to Port Authority. The bike was a godsend. And all this just to get the exit stamp. No questions were asked regarding the whereabouts of Moondance. I had moved back to near the yacht yard to be able to say it was at the yacht yard if necessary.
How the superyachts get their lamb Easter Sunday
Next day I headed to Kassiopi to recover.
Festival at Kassiopi.
In the evening I was feeling a little hungry so went in to the village (Kassiopi is delightful) to find a party atmosphere and folk dancing to be had in the evening.
Having misssed the traditional lamb on the spit Sunday lunch I really felt like making up for it so headed for a restaurant visited the previous year that probably had Kleftiko (slow roasted lamb) A little early I decided to try on the harbour. What a sight - Spit roasted lamb with bread. Sandwiches. Just what I wanted - ready in 1/2 an hour. Good oh - I can wait that long and did.
The first lamb carcass came off the spit and I joined the queue with anticipation of a hot meat sandwhich. What I got for 20E was an aluminium tray (weighed) full with hot meat. Not neatly sliced as expected, but chopped in best butcher fashion right in front of me. Bones and all were loaded in. People before me were ordering whole trays full - chops, leg, anywhere that could be chopped - enough to feed large families. I felt like a tourist.
Folk Dancing
The sky was threatening and some large drops of rain had fallen while waiting for the folk dancing and I did not feel like getting et going back to the boat, so I watched a few rounds of young children moving in a circle to music with variations of hand holding, but not much else. Typical of other displays we have seen in earlier years. Still delightful in original costume.
I chickened out and headed back to Moondance before the next older set. Of course the sky lightened.
Albania
Sarande has been a delight. Far from the Communist country I was evicted 3 times from in 2005. Check in with an agent was easy. A one stop shop E65 compared to E30 in Corfu and do it yourself with much walking.
We had been back in 2016 and take the Butrint tour from Corfu.
Buildings now are all painted, people well dressed with modern scooters and V8 Audis. (Previously stolen to order in Italy) Roading infrastructure is being modernised with the help of migrant labour - same as everywhere else in the world. The promenade is wide and extensive with shops and restaurants everywhere lining the beachfront. Beach is marble chip.
Supermarkets are well stocked with Greek and Italian products, at prices less than both those countries and NZ. 1/2 trolley of average shopping including vegetables (no meat or alcohol was $NZ66)
Not convinced of how good the holding in mud in the harbour is I have 50m of chain out. Apparently a few yachts have dragged recently.
There has been thunderstorms nearby the last two days and I have elected to stay in Sarande for the last 2 days and leave tomorrow.
Ksamil Islands- 6NM South of Sarande
A moderately well sheltered group of Islands that have now succumbed to the holiday atmosphere that pervades most coastal towns. The beaches and bars are well patronised. Fortunately there are not many cruisers around and I am on my own. Bliss
Photos of Bora Bora Beach Ksamil on the following page
Saturday, 4 May 2024
2024 - A year of challenges
Raewyn not being able to travel this year has presented many challenges.
With a family reunion in Coff's Harbour in April. Overseas Travel started rather early. A very enjoyable 11 days with lots of stories, catchups and fun. It has been many years since we were all together.
The horror of 24 Hour Flying.
This year it was a stop over in Singapore then on to Athens then Corfu. Daunting but manageable and pleased when it was over with the Taxi ride in familiar surroundings of Corfu town to Corfu Yacht Yard.
Sunrise over Greece
Moondance had weathered the winter well with only a moderate amount of cleaning inside. Outside was different with evidence of the ever present Africa dirt rains to be washed down. Apart from that everything was going well.
It was a real pleasure to catch up with Panos Katsouris - my go to fix it man, adviser, and friend since 2006. He has helped in so many ways sorting out any issues I have and providing advice and contacts when language Barriers are difficult.
I hired a step through motorbike to get me around for the days I am in the yard. This has helped a lot - until I lost my phone while riding it.
Panos provided me with an excellent replacement phone and I have been able to recover most of my information. Have lost phone contacts, maybe the ninjas in NZ can recover that from my old number, but I doubt it.
Weather so far has been very mixed. The beautiful warm blue sky days have been interspersed with some cold, wet days and nights.
The yacht yard has been like any other. Hot showers and toilet facilities with a temperamental washing machine make it bearable and there is always something happening. The workers are versatile and very good with assistance. Moondance has been polished and had a holding tank added together with work on the bow roller.
I have added a small outboard motor which is very easy to operate single handed.
Typical Old Town Scene
Pita Gyros at George's Kontokoli Village - Again
LAUNCHING
Launching day 25 April went well with all systems working as they should. Anchored at Garitses Bay near the old town to complete the cleaning
EASTER
Bands on Palm Sunday
11am Saturday
Easter is late this year. Preparations have been going on, with band rehearsals in small rooms around the old town. Visitors arriving have filled the supermarkets and the markets, cafes and tavernas. Lear jets, commercial aircraft, buses, highways full.
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