Sailing with Moondance

Thursday, 25 May 2017

Sailing with Moondance 2017

Began with the flight from hell. 17.5 hours NZ to Doha and we arrived in Doha late, but with enough time to catch our flight to Fiumacino – Rome (5.5 hours) About 6 hours in Rome airport and we were on our way to Catania Sicily and our final destination Siracusa.

Arriving at about 6pm at our accommodation, thankfully a lift had been installed to take us to the first floor. After being greeted like long lost friends by Antonio we headed straight for bed.

Next day we called in to the Nautica store, again greeted like long lost friends and Vincenzo and his wife Elena were pleased to see us. Vincenzo had installed a new anchor winch over winter and came down to Moondance to test it with all systems running. It needed a bit of fine electrical tuning.

Antonio who stored Moondance had completed the antifouling and she was in the water all ready to move aboard.

We have now had a few days to reorient ourselves with Ortiga, Siracusa and visit the markets, re provision etc.

No plan – just adventure

Yesterday we planned to go to Ragusa by bus. Found the bus station and were directed to the train station. Bought tickets and sat on the platform waiting for the train. Then were told by an Aussie couple we had to validate the tickets to avoid a fine. Train was out of sight on another platform and we were informed was leaving in 2 minutes. Mussolini got the trains to leave on time. He left the detail of arriving on time to providence. We had to hurry as there was no way the train was waiting an extra 30 seconds.

It was 2 hours to Ragusa – a lovely Baroque town which would have been better if any shops had been open. We found a small panniteria open and bought lunch. The architecture in the town made it worth visiting, but none of the churches, basilicas, cathedrals or civic buildings were open. The town had them all, but they were closed. There were not many people on the streets. Only a few tourists and locals. Ragusa seems to want to shun any tourist trade and the locals enjoy their siesta. It would have been great to be there in the evening hopefully then there would have been some activity in what we found was a ghost town.

Taking the train back went OK until we came to a small station in the middle of nowhere. One hour later another train pulled up with four people on it who transferred to our train. As we pulled in to Siracusa one of the transferees made a dash to a train going to Rome. It seems he had missed a connection, so a train was sent specially to deliver him to our train and the train to Rome departed as soon as he arrived.

Today is another sunny day and we plan to get diesel. As soon as it has been delivered we will visit the catacombs, then check out with the navy and depart the marina.

A cultural day

Everything went as planned, just the timing was wrong. Took all morning to get the diesel. Nothing happens on time. We did however check out with the Navy. I nominated our next port as Taormina -well, that was not going to happen. We were forbidden too go anywhere near Taormina until after Sunday and our destination was altered to Catania. Politics has interfered with cruising. Usually if I am told I cannot do something, I want to and will do it. Old age is catching up with me and the thought of not being able to use local rubbish bins, and the presence of military carrying huge automatic rifles does not inspire me anymore. Had enough of that in Nthn Ireland.

So, we tamed it down and went to the Catacombs. They are Huge – and it would be very easy to get lost. A city of the dead. We tagged on to a tour guide who showed us the most interesting bits. All bodies have been removed and buried elsewhere. Not far from the Catacombs is the Museum. This is interesting and has exhibits from prehistoric times up to the present time with Egyptian, Greek and of course Italian influence.

Well, with all work completed, we are ready to head off tomorrow for anywhere but Taormina.

Doha Airport

Markets Siracusa

Ragusa

Catacombs Siracusa

Catacombs Siracusa (In the Museum)

Siracusa Museum

Wednesday, 9 November 2016

Leaving Siracusa and arriving in Malta

Having found a suitable resting place for Moondance in a yacht yard near the canal - Ortiga Siracusa, we had a few days in the nearby marina (prompted by two days of bad weather) we moved from the town quay to the marina. The bad weather that was predicted happened. We were safely in a floating marina with waves crashing only a few metres from us.
Arrangements to haul Moondance were delayed by a critical two days and I was up at 6am on the day of haul out. Everything went well and it was over by 9.15. Tight scheduling as we had to get the bus to Catania at 11.00am to catch our flight to Malta. Consequently some of the winterising was left to the yard - putting on the cover and running freshwater through the engine.

The 30minute flight to Malta was uneventful Ryanair performed above expectations as we had arranged priority book in. Then came the bus trip from hell. One hour to travel a few kilometres from the airport to St Julians "bus terminus" The bus was overcrowded from the airport. We were separated from our bags and the bus picked up passengers during the journey. In the process I lost two jackets that I had as hand luggage to save weight. That decision obviously proved fatal. Still, not that big a deal but there is no lost property system in Malta. We were fortunate to have got off at the correct bus stop and were only 150m from the apartment. Not having clear instructions we engaged a taxi driver who had no idea where the address was and 20Euro and a few kilometres later we were dropped off near the apartment. What a circus.

Peter and Nikki were waiting for us, we had dinner and called it a day.

Since then we have been tourists in Malta. The public transport bus system requires intellect of Einstein proportions to understand. Most buses (but not all) go to Valletta transfer station where you get the bus to the required destination. Knowing the difficulty, the Malta Public Bus Company issues tickets valid for two hours. This is almost exactly the time needed to catch a bus and transfer to the required destination.

With Peters help we got a guided tour of the surrounding area and also accompanied to Mdina, the craft markets and the Mosta dome. All interesting tourist destinations. A lunchtime piano recital in St Francis of Assisi Church yesterday was part of our cultural visit to Malta.

Malta is a rock strategically in the middle of the Mediterranean sea. It has no other reason for existence that I am aware of. About 90 square miles, with each family owning an average of 3 cars = congestion. The locals do not favour motorcycles. Malta was a British strategic stronghold during WW2 and has many relics of that era. Driving on the left is strange when surrounded by a continent that drives on the right. There are many English and Irish style pubs. Everywhere is a building site with the skyline dotted with cranes. Apartments are being built and renovated everywhere. Lookout Auckland, or you could emulate Malta. Apartment city - seaviews are expensive. Developers own the air above the apartment, so can add on and up blocking views.
Malta is very Catholic, with 365 churches for a population of 425,000, so our visit here has been peppered with tours of Basilicas, Cathedrals, Churches and other religious sites. As you may be aware, Raewyn is a devout Catholic and I have no objection to viewing what really are amazing art works.

Tomorrow will see more touristy journeys starting back to Valetta to view St Pauls shipwreck museum among others. Apparently St Paul was shipwrecked here while being taken from Ephesus to stand trial in Rome.

Marina storm
Add caption

Lifting Moondance

Mdina - one clock tells date, one tells time

Mdina

Old transport - with cellphone

Mdina

Skull and Crossbones - purgatory awaits for those with limbs and
head removed

Mosta Dome

Bomb that fell thru the dome WW2

Monday, 24 October 2016

Taormina to Siracusa - Siracusa A City Of Secrets Including the birthplace of Archimedes where amongst other things he invented his screw,

Siracusa is a beautiful old city with many charms. Certainly worth a visit if you are in the vicinity. We have decided to leave Moondance here for the winter for a variety of positive reasons. We are enjoying the ambience of the waterfront. Walking Ortiga - the old part of the city with its fascinating narrow streets, fountains, piazzas, and all. Visiting the Greek and Roman theatres, the cathedral Archimedes Fountain etc.

Peter and Nikki left to pursue property purchase in Malta. We will catch up with them again in a couple of weeks

Refugees. We have seen some evidence of refugees during our travels. In Samos there were many abandoned lifejackets at a point where there is only a mile between Turkey and Greece (EU), In Sicily the Guardia Costeria operate large vessels and in Cantania we were stopped from walking on the wharves as the authorities were processing African refugees. A bus load of refugees passed us.

Music It is rather surreal to be sitting on the waterfront listening to Lordes "Loyal" and Crowded House singing in Italian

Mt Etna with cheesecutter

Boil up at Cantiara

Archimedes Fountain Siracusa

Street scene Siracusa

Lunch at a restaurant in Siracusa, 5 small "hamburgers" E7.50

Church with no roof

Waterfront Siracusa

View from Moondance - Town Quay Siracusa

Thursday, 20 October 2016

On to Sicily and A night at the Opera (for those who know me - not a Marx brothers film)

We completed work on Moondance in Corfu - engine back together and Solar Bracket fitted. Peter and Nikki Zabell arrived from Australia to join us for the rest of our time in the Mediterranean. We left the marina heading for a small island north of Corfu when the battery alarm sounded so we called in to Kassiopi - a small town in the North of Corfu. The combination of solar + engine charging was the culprit so after fitting a cutoff switch to the solar panel, we were on our way overnight to Italy.
For the first time in a while we were sailing. Very efficiently and arrived at Porto La Castella at 11 am the next morning, tired but safe. The marina was basic - no hot water etc etc and charged 25euros for the pleasure. we had a walk around the town in the evening and were treated to a fireworks display from a vantage point above a restaurant complex. The fireworks were exploding impressively above our head.
Sailing down the Southern Italian Coast the next day we arrived at Porto Delle Grazie, a pleasant enough stop with an interesting shifting sand bar entrance which we negotiated easily. A long day saw us leave in the dark following our track in. There was about 60 miles to Taormina Sicily achieved by a combination of sailing and motoring. This included crossing the Messina Strait - our first encounter with currents for a while. We arrived safely in the bay (Mazzaro at the foot of Taormina) anchored amongst laid moorings and tied to an offshore rock.
Since then we have visited Taormina by Finicula (actually a cable car) and enjoyed the sights including a trip to Castel Mola - a village perched on the top of a hill, and a nearby town of Naxos. Of course an Italian/Sicilian dinner of pasta at an outdoor restaurant preceded an evening at the Italian Opera. A wonderful evening and we felt privileged to be entertained and having drinks on a balcony overlooking a magnificent old town and bay.