Sailing with Moondance : Still Cruising in the Ionian Sea

From Vathi Vali just South of Levkas Canal, we headed the short distance to Port Atheni on Meganissi Island. This is a pleasant sheltered anchorage and we walked to the small hill village for fresh bread and a look around. Next Bay round is Abelike – about 2 miles. Another yacht had our favourite spot, but there is plenty of room to find a suitable anchorage.

At this time of year there is a noticeable increase in the number of charter and flotilla charter fleets. Not every yacht has a capable skipper and there is considerable competition for the best anchorages.
Leaving Meganissi it is a short distance back to Nidri on Levkas after passing Skorpios Island (Onassis). We spent 2 nights there re provisioning. Bob and Sue had a taverna (Elena) in Vliho recommended so they took us there. A dinghy ride in to a very sheltered anchorage to the South of Nidri.

We attempted to get back to Vassiliki, at the southern end of Levkas, the wind was blowing strongly and the town quay was very full by the time we got there. The bay was full of small yachts having a regatta. It is a very popular windsurfing and watersports centre. We opted to sail back to Sivota which was fairly full of yachts and we free anchored in deeper water than we are used to (generally 2-6 metres)

The anchor winch gave up at this point. Bob and Sue had a place on the town quay, so we rafted up with them until a spot became available on the jetty one place over, so we moved there. Raewyn found a marine electrician to look at the winch. The motor was dead and taken away for refurbishment. The Ionian in July is not somewhere you want work done in a hurry. We were fortunate and in 2 days the repair had been made and we were on our way to Vathi on Ithaka. (There are many towns in Greece called Vathi. I think it means deep harbour)

From Vathi, it was back to Pera Pighadi, an isolated anchorage with no facilities. On previous occasions we have been one of the few yachts in the anchorage. Not this time as others, including a flotilla charter are using it for an overnight stop. However, the water is clear and I had the best Med snorkel with small multi-coloured semi tropical fish I had not seen before. Crushed a few sea urchins and they became friends for life.

Town Quay at Ay Euphemia –on Cephalonia. Bit of a scramble as the quay was full and available for one night only as 31 yachts were booked for the following night. Next day we free anchored in the bay and got a taxi to the Melanissi caves near Sami. E30 for the trip + E7 each entrance. About 2 hours all up. The caves are semi underground. Actually really only one cave but well worth the experience of being rowed by the Volga Boatman and learning some of the history from both the boatman and the taxi driver.

We anchored in a small deserted bay further up the Coast. At least it was deserted until we arrived when 2 more yachts came in for a while. Anyway, Wild Indigo and Othali had the Bay to ourselves overnight. Next day an exploration walk ashore discovered the remains of a house, terraced fields and an animal shelter with a few goats in attendance. After the walk it was on to Fiskhardo where we anchored with ropes to rocks. As usual the place is very busy with ferries coming and going and lots of tourists.

3 August, we left Fiskhardo and motored to Assos on the west of Cephalonia. A very pretty town with a small unprotected harbour but we managed again to anchor tied to rocks (Med Mooring) We had a look around town and a very pleasant meal in a tavern ashore.

It is 39.5 degrees in the hottest part of the day, so most activity happens early morning and evening.

Next day we got up early (7.30am) to walk the 1.8k uphill to the Venetian Fort. Built in 1595 to house Cephalonians and provide protection from invaders. No fresh water was available so it was not very successful as a city but was an awesome garrison. A very lazy brunch/lunch before returning to the yachts to recover.

Off to One House Bay Atoko Island . A very popular anchorage. Space is limited in this delightful secluded bay with no facilities. We are anchored successfully near the beach and enjoying the clear water.