Corfu to Marmaris

Abelike Bay

Snow over Delphi

Are we safe?

Mooring for the night

Restaurant- Taverna

Paros

O Panormos Astypalia

Only in Greece -  the Mausoleum/Chapel/Crypt in better condition than the house

Vathi Astypalia

Simi 

Simi

We left Corfu heading south in to a southerly breeze that increased as the day went on. It is a familiar journey and we eventually made it to Preveza where we stopped for one day. Continuing to Abelike Bay on Meganisi, it started to really feel like we could unwind and prepare for the long distances we had to make in the next few days. We were already 3 days late on our planned program to Marmaris to meet up with Graham and Lorraine.

From Meganisi  it was another long day to Galaxidi in the Gulf of Corinth where we tied up to the town quay in the last space available between a catamaran and a monohull. We were there to take on diesel which we did the next morning and promptly left on our eastward journey. Galaxidi was the last place with which we were familiar.

In the Gulf of Corinth we were for a time surrounded by large pods of dolphins. Some of them travelled with us for quite a distance jumping, playing, riding the bow wave and turning to look up at us.  It was a magical experience. And we passed other pods not far off. We think they were travelling to a dolphin conference nearby.

Corinth Canal Transit

Our transit of the canal was uneventful. We only had to wait 5 minutes to allow a slowly traversing freighter to gain some distance. We were instructed to proceed at full speed which we did. The eastern side of the canal where dues are paid is not a great place to tie up to while visiting the canal office. We completed the E194 payment and continued on our way, hoping to get to Poros, to meet up with Bob and Sue on Othali. We did not get that far, and ended up sheltered behind a small island – Nisis Dhoroussa. The safest place was backed on to the local taverna quay. Of course we had to dine at the tavern. Shared fried Octopus rings and a Greek salad. It was pleasant enough in a beautiful  setting.

With .4 of a metre under the keel. In calm conditions in the Med this is just ok. Our anchor was well dug in to the sand. However, at 3am the wind came up with a slight chop, so outside we went to change the short mooring lines to longer ones and pull ourselves further off the quay. This gave us enough respite until 7.30am when we continued on our way. The intended stop at Poros did not occur as we had a weather forecast for strong southerly winds expected to last up to 6 days, so, as we were already 3 days late, we decided to carry on and arrived at Kithnos to a fairly pleasant anchorage with a sand bar dividing two bays.

Next stop was Paros – unfortunately missing Sue & Bob, Serifos, and Sifnos. But it did put us back on schedule for Marmaris. Paros – Paioikia is a pleasant place with a ferry port and small marina. We had time for a walk around. More diesel and arrange a mechanic to get the outboard going. The carburettor was blocked and that small job is beyond my ability. Will U tube it for next time.

Astipalaia was our next stop after a long day motoring with little or no wind. The 6 days of high southerlies have mysteriously disappeared. The chosen Bay – O Panormos is landlocked – sheltered and isolated. No sign of life anywhere except for the myriad of goats on the nearby hills with their bleating and bells.  These places are few and far between, so we are staying for the day to break the journey, relax, and enjoy the surroundings.

Vathi (many harbours are named Vathi) was another landlocked jewel only 6 miles from O. Panormos and we spent 2 days relaxing enough to be dangerous.

As always, today the sky is blue with no clouds. It is however, too cold for swimming and the nights are also cold.  

From Astipalaia to Simi is a long day, and we left the anchorage at 5.30.Our earliest start ever. Of course there was not much wind and paseed Nisiros the halfway mark and we continued uneventfully to Simi where we were to stay for the next 4 days.

Bureaucracy.   In Simi we tried to complete the new cruising tax – Tepal, registering on the Greek tax system.  We had tried without success a few times on the way when we had wi-fi, but were now desperate as we needed a receipt before we could check in. The Port Police were no help and suggested we ask other “boat people”. There had been a lot of discussion on cruiser nets and I eventually completed registration myself. Wen to Customs – paid E98.72, got a receipt and went back to Port Authority to check in. That completed, went to Port Police to check out. Passports stamped, it was back to Port Authority to check out. This whole process has been time consuming and stressful. Unfortunately Raewyn suffered the effect that the stress had on me, which she did stoically (well almost)

We were now free to leave. Bob and Sue on Othali caught us up so we decided to stay an extra 2 days. – Overstayers, so we have kept a low profile as Port Police, Coast Guard, and Port Authorities are everywhere. One yacht left in a helluva hurry and it transpired they were Russian. The police were making enquiries as to the crew whereabouts. No one knew, but trhgey appeared suddenly with huge quantities of beer and vodka, got on board and left quickly. Apparently they had no papers and had not paid tax. In other words me in previous years. This got us concerned as we were overstayers . However, we are now preparing to leave without any issues. – Got out of jail again.

Simi is everything the postcards express. A beautiful town, pastel coloured buildings rising up the hill from the waterfront. Restaurants and tourist shops fringing the waterfront.  It receives  1000’s of tourists each day who arrive on large ferries. The ferries create a wash in the harbour. Yachts are anchored stern to on both sides of the harbour and consequently crossed anchors ensue.

We took a bus trip to the next Bay – Pedi beach. One hour return through the village on the hill above the harbour.

Refugees . There are quite a few Syrian? Refugees sat the Police Station. We understand they are not fed or cared for – just spend the day sitting outside the police station. But someone must be feeding them. Raewyn and Sue purchased some bubble toys, fruit and vegetables and gave them to the refugees. Our mascot Shaun also joined the refugees in sympathy. It is not a pleasant situation.

Now it is off to Marmaris to meet Graham and Lorraine. Sue and Bob will accompany us.