Sunday 23 June 2019

Finike to Phaesilis and back to near Fethiye

Leaving Finike marina it was a boisterous sail for a few hours  to the point where it was suggested that we turn around and have an easy sail back to the Kekova area. However, there was a potential sheltered anchorage 5 miles (1 hour) away so we decided to persist and sheltered in a large bay called Karaoz Limani where we had lunch and rested before heading around a cape to our destination of Cavus Limani - a large bay now populated with restaurants ashore and day tripper boats operating.We anchored in a small bay near local fishing boats, but decided later that there was more shelter across the bay. During the transit of the bay Othali was selected by Turkish Coastguard (Guvenlik) for an exercise in checking obviously foreign yachts. No worries and we had a very pleasant anchorage for the night but did not venture ashore.
Next day saw us at our next destination of Cineviz Limani. A much smaller bay with no facilities except a few holiday shacks and fishermen.
Next stop was Phaesilis where Tony's Tiki Tour of Turkey ended. The ancient city was no longer a quiet place which no one visited. There was now a 30TL charge, lots of visitors, and the bay was inundated with Gulets from Kemer. The Gulets arrived around mid day. Stayed till around 1.30 - enough time for a swim and lunch, then back to Kemer. They were the most unusual looking craft decked out as pirate ships or ancient Gods (Medusa etc) Some were 3 decks high and looked most unstable.

We now had to retrace our steps back. One bonus was calling at Sozak Koyu - a lovely bay between Cavus and Cineviz Limani. We had called in to this bay earlier but not stayed. There was nothing ashore except a few basic campsites. The bay was visited by Gulets and tripper boats but they did not stay the night. Next day we had a long walk along the access road. This was constructed mostly of solid rock. There was evidence of wild pigs in the area, and in the afternoon and early morning  we heard a few gunshots. Surprising in a Muslim country that does not eat pork?
There was also a fair amount of rubbish dumped wherever it was consumed.
However, Sozak Koyu was a delightful Bay with clear water and many turtles.

Our return track was then Gokkaya Limani, Karaloz, Ucagiz [All Kekova Roads] where we again had a delightful meal right on the waterfront. The restaurant owner called and collected us with his boat.
A stop at Kas Marina to dispose of waste, refuel and lunch at "Mumma's Restaurant" and then it was on to a Bay near Kalkan for the night.

Today was a comparatively long 6 hour motor to Bestas Limani where we will stay the night before carrying on the Fethiye to arrive again in time for the markets on Tuesday.

The weather has been very kind so far. Most days get to 34DegC which is a bit hot, so we have spent plenty of time swimming to cool off. There has been a build up of cloud in the hills during the afternoon with thunder, but no clouds in the sky on the coast. Sailing has been disappointing with little wind, and what there has been, has been from the wrong direction, but you don't come to the Lycian Way and Turquoise Coast for the sailing. 
 

Finike Marina

Moon over Cavus Limani

Sunrise Cineviz Limani


14 of these stopped for lunch at Phaesilis
                                                                         





Phaesilis






Aqueduct


Aqueduct

Theatre




Ancient Roman Chariot


Thursday 13 June 2019

More of Kekova Roads and on to Finike

It is possible to spend a lot of time in this area with many different sheltered bays and anchorages, all different in their own way.

Kale Koy.
The most touristy. Gulets and tripper boats pass frequently to view the castle. We walked up from our anchorage on the other side. Very hot as we passed many sarcophagi, then descended past the many restaurants and trinket vendors. Took the obligatory photo of the sarcophagus in the water and walked back over the hill. Next day we anchored under the castle and dinghied across to the "sunken city" expecting to see terrazzo floors etc, but this was not to be. Plenty of evidence of an ancient city on the Island of Kekova though as we traveled down the shore. Interesting enough but not up to our expectations. From there it was on to Gokkaya Limani - a lovely sheltered anchorage just a short distance away. Our electronics power supply failed, so we followed Othali closely through the narrow passages to the anchorage.
Here we dinghied to the "Pirates Cave" on a nearby Island. A large cave we spent some time inside hoping the roof did not give way as  was evidenced by some of the rocks on the sea floor. They had obviously been part of the roof at some stage.

Finike Marina. Finike is where I entered Turkey from Cyprus on Checkmate all those years ago.

We Finike reached the next day to try and sort out the electronics. (I had temporarily fixed the power supply) Reports of work done here were not good so we decided not to pursue a solution in the hope that the "fix" will get us back to Marmaris. Bit disconcerting though with the possibility of not being able to rely on a depth sounder.

Kale Koy



Gokkaya Limai




Typical Sunrise

Monday 10 June 2019

Lycian Way and more of the Turquoise Coast

From Kas we were heading for Kekova Roads, but plan B prevailed as we noticed A quiet Bay and made our way to Ufakdere Koyu (Small River Bay). Not recommended in any of the guides, it had clear water and seemed sheltered enough for the calm conditions we were experiencing. And we had it all to ourselves. Nek minute 15 Gulets arrived. It is a lunch stop on the popular Kas Islands Tour.
Othali moved on to Inonu Koyu around the corner, but we toughed it out for a few hours and in the afternoon and night had the Bay to ourselves. These are the conditions we love. Clear water, safe, secure anchorage and isolated. Next morning we caught up with Othali and moved on to another Plan B - Asar Buku. Again, not recommended as an anchorage, but a large inlet with clear water and good holding.
Two other yachts were there until evening when again we had the bay to ourselves. At the head of the inlet lie the ruins of the ancient city of Aperlae, now partially underwater. Exploring ashore and the unique conditions required staying another day and we spent time wandering over the ruins and snorkelling over the underwater portion of the ancient city.
Moving on we understood that we were likely to encounter more yachts and Gulets as we entered Kekova Roads proper. The area is a tourist destination. We anchored just off Ucagiz (a small town in the area) and had lunch ashore at the famous Hassan's Restaurant. hassan and family were very welcoming and we arranged a day trip to Myra and Demre (St Nicholas Church) for the next day. Shopping was completed at the small supermarket and fruit/vegetable shop.

Inland Adventure.   To Myra and St Nicholas Church (This is an Islamic Country)

At 9.30am 4 of us poured in to a Fiat 124 lookalike with our driver and headed off to Myra (a family name for Raewyn)
Approximately 30 kilometres later we arrived at the ancient Roman site, paid our 60lira and went in. It is sort of like a small scale Ephesus, but with Lycian Tombs. As does Ephesus, there is a large Ampitheatre. Having viewed the site, we went on to St Nicholas Church in the town of Demre.
This is an old Church in Memory of St Nicholas and attracted a large pilgrimage of Russian devotees on the day we visited. There is a crypt, but it appears most of St Nicholas was transported to Europe at some stage.
This trip cost 150TL (less than NZ$40) for the car and driver and took up the morning.

Costs here in Turkey are reasonable and it is possible for two people to dine out at a restaurant for 110TL - less than $30NZ including alcohol.  3.8 TL = 1NZD

Ufakdera Koyu

Nek Minute

Our anchor


After the
Gulets have gone

Asar Buku - Ancient City of
Aperlae


Bats







Kekova Roads







Myra










St Nicholas

St Nicholas



Our Driver and Car!!


Ucagiz

Kale Koy - The Photo Everyone Gets



Tuesday 4 June 2019

Kas Marina and Kastellerrizon

We decided to stay in Kas and day trip to the nearby Greek Island of Kastellerrizon.

The marina is a touch of luxury and opportunity to restock. We booked our tickets in Kas town for the short ferry ride from Turkey to Greece.

Kastellerrizon is an island that has suffered from a decreasing population during the 20th century. The buildings that still existed on the waterfront were evidence of a bustling town of merchants. It was sad to walk the back streets and observe the obvious decay and depopulation.
However, many of the still existing buildings were in good condition and had the hope of rejuvenation. This is obvious from the current photographs of the waterfront. However, the old photographs show a different perspective of a larger town and active seafront.

After a walk around the town we had lunch, observed the resident turtles  then arranged a 10E each small open boat trip to the Blue Cave.  This was a highlight and again the photos do not do it justice. Entrance was through a very small opening and we had to crouch very low in the open boat to get in to the cave.


Main Town

As it once
 was


                                                                               




As it is now 




Blue Cave Entrance

Blue Cave Exit




Mausoleum