Salerno is at the end of the Amalfi Coast and we spent a pleasant evening anchored off the small beach in the middle of town. A search for diesel saw us visit the most obvious marina at the ferry and overseas port, but no, it was at the Marina Touristico, not 100 metres from where we had been anchored. There we took on diesel, but nothing else. No water, and this was the beginning of our search for gas.
We had nothing else we wanted in Salerno, so in the expectation that we could get gas anywhere, we headed south and arrived at a delightful bay with no facilities - Pta Dell Ogliastro. It was so peaceful we stayed an extra day before going to nearby marina at the town of Acciarola. This started our gas saga. None anywhere in the area. Who knew. The small town based on the local fishing industry was rather sparse with facilities, but Raewyn found a very obliging grocer who delivered all our needs to the boat including the first slab of Peroni cans we had found in Italy. A rather up market pizza restaurant was a great setting for a birthday celebration.
Then it was on to a small anchorage on Cape Palinuro. One of those last minute decisions to stop for the night early as it was close to our path and looked inviting. And it was. A very pleasant small, well sheltered anchorage off the beach. A minor tourist attraction of a Blue Cave saw a few tripper boats about.
Then our next destination delayed from the previous day - Cetraro. Where our gas ran out, and none easily available in the village. We anchored off the marina for 3 days and enjoyed the anchorage. The man at the marina allowed us to use their washing machine free of charge. We did 3 loads.
Trying to leave in the morning, we found our starter battery flat.
The start of a new adventure.
We got a tow into the marina at 4pm that day and plugged into shore power. And did another load of washing. Cost for the night 40euros. All sorted we thought and departed at 6am the next morning for Tropea.
Arriving late in the afternoon we anchored among 3 other yachts in a sheltered bay outside the marina.
At 11.30pm the Guardia de Finanza arrived in the anchorage all lights blazing from a very large launch and much yelling and shouting. We stayed quiet until our turn. We were only asked where we were from and how many were on board. End of drama. The other yachts appeared to be getting a more thorough interrogation. In the morning we saw two had left, with only us and a French yacht in the anchorage, and a broken nights sleep.
In the morning we went into the marina for gas and diesel. Diesel - no problem (which we did not really need) Gas - big problem. yes it was available at the marina joined to the fuel dock, but access was restricted. We had to leave the marina, re anchor and go into the marina by dinghy to the beach, then on foot. But we got gas - two bottles, returned to Moondance and had our first hot drink in 4 days before leaving for Vulcano Island.
Another adventure continued
Vulcano was a dream sail. To windward and we were making good progress when a check of the battery level showed that it was dropping abnormally. What to do - no charge was being made from solar or motor. As always plan B was made and a search of marinas determined Porto Rosa was the most suitable based on the Italian Cruising Guide. Although a little further than other options, we altered course (better wind angle for a change) and arrived outside the marina at 9.00pm. The marinaro was very good and waiting for us after we called him up on VHF when we arrived outside the marina. It was pleasant to go to bed with no chance of being woken at midnight.
With the benefit of hindsight we should have sorted the batteries at Cetraro on the mainland. It took 6 days of promises for the electrician to call and check the system. He did not test the batteries, but long term it is better to have all new rather than mix and match.
Batteries ordered and due in four days, that is where we still are. Enjoying the benefits of a marina but that is not what cruising is about.
We have been getting many boat jobs done and most have been successful. The sort of jobs you never get around to while cruising. The downside is the added cost of marina fees.
Portorosa has a very large charter fleet as we were to find out on turnaround day. The day all charters return to base, leave and yachts are prepared for the next lot of charterers. Many expensive new catamarans are included in the fleet and the number of guests, bags, and supplies (boxes of wine) is phenomenal. All cost driven to reduce the cost per person of the charter. They would have to be very good friends for a week. Occasionally we see a couple with skipper and hostess only, but that is unusual. The entrance and exit of these yachts continues non stop all day as the whole passage is narrow. Room for two yachts only passing and some of the catamarans are as wide as Moondance is long - 40ft. 12metres
We are very near the cruising ground of the Aeolian Islands - Vulcano, Stromboli, Lipari among the more famous. Perhaps we are fortunate in having been there in previous years and do not feel compelled to revisit with all the charter vessels visiting.
The weather has been varied. Beautiful hot blue sky days mostly, but today and yesterday wet with thunderstorms mostly in the hills but still no wind. great for washing sails.
Drying day. The marina posted the picture of washing day
Charters leaving (2 in this photo)
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