Sailing with Moondance : The Southern Ionian

Leaving Lefkada 8 July we headed South.

The sail down the Meganissi Channel was very ordinary, and as the wind changed during the day, it appeared we would be able to head up the East side of Meganissi without gybing. This became an impossibility as the wind died, then came from the east, and we headed for Arkoudi Island and a possible anchorage. Again, nothing suitable was available (there is limited shelter and it was all taken up) so we continued for the shelter of Ithaka. There are many safe anchorages and the wind kept building so me made good timing. The wind kept building and quite quickly reached 40knots, so we were progressively reefing until we gave up and motored the last few miles close to the land in the shelter of the hills. Thinking Vathi (an enclosed harbour) may not be tenable in the wind that was coming directly into the harbour, we elected to anchor in the very South of the large bay that surrounds Vathi Harbour. By this time it was nearly dark. We anchored near an Amel Super Maramu, but as the wind appeared to be shifting and swinging we moved to give us and him more room. By this time it was dark. Another yacht was concerned with their position, so came and anchored nearer to us. A trend was starting.

Next day, the wind abated a little and we headed for Vathi. A bay on the outside of the harbour itself (Deksia Bay) looked inviting with only 1 superyacht - Southern Cross for company we anchored and enjoyed the Bay for the next 3 days. Dinghying into town the next day we checked in to Port Police and hoped to have lunch at a favourite restaurant that has spit roast cooked in the premises. This was not to be as he did not open until 4.30 and we had done all we wanted to in town by 3pm (the barber shut at 2pm, and I was too late to get there) So, we headed back to Deksia. By mid afternoon the wind had built again and we headed straight into it down the harbour. Raewyn got soaked, so that was the end of our venturing in to Vathi. The bay was well sheltered and we could see the wind and waves coming round the point so we stayed and enjoyed the Bay mostly on our own for the next 3 days.

We continued on to the Southern End of Ithaka, then headed for the Southern End of Kefalonia and anchored off a beach - Katelios Mounda Beach which was sheltered enough. Here our destiny with other vessels started. Within minutes a large motor yacht with all the toys pulled up. we had purposely kept a great distance from other yachts in the 3 mile+ bay. In the evening we elected to move along the beach to another secure anchorage for the night.

Our next destination was Argostoli -(Captain Corellis Mandolin) We had never visited this town as it is up an inlet and quite off the usual cruising route of heading for Zakynthos, or going around the Peloponnese

Argostoli

Approaches are past the airport and aircraft come in low over the water as in Corfu and Sint Maartin in the Caribbean. We anchored again in the Scotsman's anchorage off the town quay. The town was a delight. Hit hard by the 1953 earthquake it has been built along modern (Greek) lines. There was a cruise liner at the dock and evidently Argostoli gets more than its share of visitors. Streets are wider than two donkeys passing, paved and clean. Shops include high end fashion and public areas are large. Typically restaurants line the town quay, along with the markets at the far end. There does not appear to much to `do other than take the tractor driven "train" around town. We stayed two nights. Another cruise liner arrived, and we left to head north up the West side of the island.

Another delightful Bay South West of Assos named Porticciolo - with just one large and one small yacht seemed a great place to spend some time. It had a reasonable land based population using the beach and the few yachts added to the ambience. A peaceful quiet night. Next day was just the reverse. More yachts arrived making the small anchorage (protected by an island) crowded, but ok. In the night a swell rolled in and it was quite uncomfortable and a contrast from the previous night. Next day we headed back to the shelter of South Lefkada. The wind shifted favourably as we got in the lee of the island and it was such good sailing we kept going up the Meganissi Channel to an anchorage - Nisis Thilia - a small island between Meganissi Is. and Nydri Lefkada Is. The water clarity was excellent and we spent four days there. At times fending off aggressive anchorers who thought they could anchor close ahead of us. One too close who, ignoring our feeble attempt to suggest he was too close, anchored and his swinging pulled our anchor out. Actually it was two yachts who made a vain attempt to raft up to share lunch. They finished lunch, up anchored and motored off as I was in the water inspecting the 50metres we had dragged. We re anchored after giving an Aussie couple a bit of a fright by being too close when our anchor came off the bottom. All good, and the next two nights saw only one superyacht close who maintained a professional crew watching during the time he was there. Overall it was worth it to have the place almost to ourselves at night, once achieving that aim.

Holy Mary day

A big holiday in Greece. Many take the week off in celebration. A bit like in the US for thanksgiving. Church Street parades in every village. Everyone travels to be with family. Flights, Ferries, and tripper boats are full.

Nydri was our next destination to check in with authorities and get a bus to Levkas to sort out our internet connection with Vodafone. All done with ease. Wind during the night saw the anchorage depleted in the morning. A few yachts including another Beneteau 40CC who had been beside us had departed.

After two days we left for South Levkas canal, then back to Levkas Marina, where we completed our tour of the Southern Ionian.