The Adventure Continues

Leaving Sounion and the Temple of Posideon we headed for Hydra. Had a look in the town basin where yachts were anchored (Med moored) 3 deep to the quay. There is a pleasant bay ½ a mile away so we headed there. (Mandraki Bay). A few yachts were anchored on both sides of the bay and we were fortunate to select a spot right at the head of the bay and took a long line to a small quay.  It was the best spot in the bay and we had it to ourselves until a charter catamaran thought he could share the spot and dumped masses of chain on the bottom right in front of us. We objected and he said he would move a long way away. Upped chain and anchor and moved about 100 metres. I had 30 metres of chain out so was still not happy but conditions were good (no wind) and we survived the night. Took a walk in to Hydra. (1/2 a nautical mile is a long way by land) had a look around and got the water taxi back.

The anchorage was so good we stayed an extra day and went back in to town by dinghy. When we returned there was a Sailing Holidays flotilla (15 boats) mooring up next to us. I have worked for Sailing Holidays in a past life and we went and spoke to the English skipper, Kiwi engineer, Kiwi hostess plus an extra kiwi teacher on holiday from London. All good. Don’t think we would have been so happy without the kiwi connection, but it was also a day when the charter guests organised their own dinner ashore so it was quiet – they usually all descend on one taverna in the evening and from experience it can get very raucous.

We spent the day in Hydra (it is a small town) enjoying the atmosphere, looking around, watching the young & beautiful and observing the antics of yachts arriving and leaving the harbour. People diving on anchors that had become entangled etc.   Raewyn found a hair stylist and I found the museum.

Leaving Hydra conditions were good and it was a big day to Monemvasia. Had a look at the “marina” which appeared to be full and was shallow so we left, motored around the headland that is Monemvasia and anchored in a small bay about 12 miles away. The meltimi blew again for the next 2 days and we occupied ourselves reading and finding leaks in the dinghy (an ongoing process). The wind is more a nuisance than anything. We anchor in sheltered spots and there are no waves. Just wind gusting down off the high hills. Once we reach land the wind abates and all is fine. We took a taxi in to Monemvasia and had a wonderful day wandering around the old walled fortified town. Like Hydra there are no vehicles and all transport is by horse, donkey, mule, or handcart. It seems handcarts are most popular and we saw all supplies being moved including tourists’ luggage. There are boutique hotels in the town.  It is very touristy, but has a homely feel about it and is certainly not overrun with tourists. We walked to the Church on the top of the hill of the “old town” and wandered through the largely restored commercial quarter of the lower town.

Our next sailing day was around the first cape in the south of Greece where we anchored in a delightful bay on the island of Elafinisos. A pleasant afternoon swimming in the clear water. There were also a few other yachts in the two large bays. Probably waiting for good conditions to round the cape to the East. We were going West. In the evening the breeze dropped and a roll started in the bay so we went further round the island to the West and found a well sheltered anchorage. Happy to leave the rolly anchorage to the other yachts.  Following this, we continued on past the next cape and in the late afternoon the wind came from the NW (directly in front of us) so we headed for a small town called Koroni. I sometimes wonder just who is in control as when we leave an anchorage we seldom end up where we intend (Plan A) so always have a Plan B and sometimes C.

Anyway, Koroni was a surprise. The anchorage was sheltered and we were under a Venetian fort.  A lovely walk around the fort which included a Greek Orthodox church (they are all very ornate) and a monastery. So pleased we made the detour and spent the extra time. In the afternoon we headed off again to round the last cape, but again the wind came up late afternoon and we anchored for the night in a sheltered bay at the cape. Again, as for most of this trip, we were on our own until a local fisherman laid his nets directly behind us. The stop worked well (5 miles and the wrong side of the cape from where we intended).

This morning all was calm and we have motored to a large bay near the town of Pilos. Again not going in to the town or marina. Raewyn prefers to find an anchorage near a beach, on our own. It saves the bother of tying up to a town wharf or marina and suits me.

Moondance Mandraki Bay Hydra

Hydra waterfront

Dance of the freaky circles Hydra harbour

Hydra street scene

Raft up Mandraki Bay

Monamvasia

Monamvasia

Monamvasia

Anchorage Koroni

Monastry Koroni

Fort - Koroni

A cultural day

While waiting for replacement credit cards we had a cultural day out in Athens watching changing of the guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier and visiting most of the ruins. All of this is thankfully near the centre of Athens and easy to walk around apart from the myriad of other tourists at the most popular spots. Changing of the guard Is an institution with soldiers in old style dresses, pompom shoes and a funny high step. They work hrad at keeping in step.  We were privileged to view the “Tower of the Four Winds” which in ancient included a water clock fed from the Acropolis above. The Tower has only recently been opened for inside viewing.

Following visiting the ruins we walked downhill in to Monastraki – a suburb a bit like Montmarte in Paris – full of restaurants, tourist shops (which are more bohemian than the more fashionable side of the ruins) and generally has a very laid back feel to it.  Then back to the underground for another sojourn in to Piraeus (every sailors’ dream shopping centre) then back to Porto Rafti.  Sunday night we had dinner ashore at a taverna, then visited the extensive night markets which popped up in the streets. A lot of the markets seemed to be manned by immigrants, interspersed with Greeks. Selling everything expected in this sort of market from clothing, bedding, electronics, tools, food, etc. There were many stalls with Dr Scholl’s foot exfoliators. Must have been a surplus dumped onto the itinerant sellers. 

To fill in a bit more time we went to Evia – a large island not far from Porto Rafti and had a really amazing relaxing day swimming etc with no wind. Another magnificent bay to ourselves with houses and a tavern ashore. A few days earlier a helicopter with a monsoon bucket had flown over our anchorage. In the bay at Evia it was obvious there had been a large scrub fire very recently and several houses had been completely burnt out. Again it was a very rural setting with sheep and goat bells – even the horse had a bell.

One of the advantages of having internet on board was that we were able to “track and trace” the credit cards. Within a  week they had arrived, so we went back to Porto Rafti,  (Thank you ASB/DHL) loaded up with provisions and today (Sunday 21 August 2016) set sail for Sounion – the Temple of Poseidon, where we still are. For the first time in a long while there are other yachts in the bay.

There was a Greek wedding here last night. Fireworks – brilliant. A great display (and we have seen a few while here), then music till dawn – so not the best night’s sleep but the music was a lot better than some of the discos in the bays we have been in. A few superyachts in the bay and our guess is that it was a pretty important wedding.



Tower of the Four Winds

Tower of the Four Winds

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier Syntagma Square

And on to Porto Rafti

Mykynos did not disappoint. A short bus ride (we were in the bay next to the town) saw us in the town proper and we walked down the very narrow streets among the throngs of other tourists. We saw the classic line of old windmills and made our way to the waterfront – literally it is the waterfront with some shops inaccessible from the seaward side- and the old harbour. Had lunch in a pleasant café where pita gyros are 10E (Tinos 1.60E). Mykynos town is an expensive place to visit. Took ¾ of an hour waiting in a queue at the post office to post one small parcel.

Thankfully the town is very picturesque and small so it is easy to wander around, enjoy the contrasting blue and white architecture which is all very old, and make our way back to the restaurant at the head of the bay we were anchored in.  The restaurant is populated by under 25,s from the adjoining hostel. Many young and beautiful bodies were lounging around enjoying the sun, swimming, and gaining strength for another late night disco.  

We headed for Tinos and were excited (not) to experience 39knots with waves breaking over the bow. It was a short trip so thankfully did not last long. In Tinos we Med moored in the harbour with free electricity (mooring 10E per night) and good freshwater. Showering, washing clothes and the yacht became a priority. In the afternoon we walked up the pilgrim’s way to the church of the Panayia. There is a carpeted section of the road where pilgrims crawl to the church. At the church there is red carpet everywhere.  A full day bus tour of Tinos was arranged and the next day we drove first to a convent where 30 nuns lived (the island is very catholic). Despite reassurance by the bus company that ¾ pants were ok, my “pantalons” were denied entry by the martinet on the gate who  looked as though she was concealing an AK47 and knew how to use it. So Raewyn (wearing a shawl) gained entry to view the Spartan sleeping quarters of the resident nuns. Small, hard bed, wash basin and a couple of recesses in the wall for personal items. Raewyn has thought Moondance luxurious ever since that visit.  Meanwhile I waited and walked in the outside grounds along with most of the other men. I had never considered my ankles and lower legs as possible titillating objects.  Continuing on we went to a “traditional” village – Volox with 25 permanent residents who seem to make their living by tourism. A short stop in another village we experienced a long wait for milkshakes with no ice that were full of extra ice. Late lunch was at Panourmos – a bay on the far side and opposite end of the island.

Leaving Tinos on a windless day, (one of the first) we headed for Porto Rafti – 60 miles. About 1.5 hours after leaving, the engine alarm showed overheating and hot fresh water in the bilge. Plans changed and we sailed to Siros (about 8 miles with little wind) We motored in to the “marina” – no power, no water, no charge and at the opposite end of the harbour from the town protected from the north wind by one wall. However, it was adequate. Manalos from Nautilius yachting has two boats in the marina and was most helpful in arranging for the Volvo agent to call and take the heat exchanger away with its blown frost plug. The motor was fixed within 24hours and we planned to go to the town quay with the yacht. That is until we visited the town – free bus – and saw how the visiting yachts were rolling with the swell and fast ferries coming into the harbour at speed. Siros town (Ermoupoli) is built on two hills and typical Greek. Restaurants on the foreshore, city at the rear. It was very pleasant and we walked up one of the hills to the church at the top. A bloody long way all up steps. But the view was worthwhile.

We have been haunted by the meltemi since we have been in Aegean, and leaving Siros was no exception. With the wind increasing, we have got smarter and decided to go to Kea island on our way north. We found a very good anchorage and were happy to stay another day. Most of the anchorages so far have been on our own or with very few other yachts, apart from town quays. We are pleased with the solitude. Kea had a few other yachts in the bay and it is becoming obvious the closer we come to Athens, the more yachts we see. Kea is a broad reach from Athens so I guess that did not help.

Leaving Kea, we stopped for lunch at Makronissi – on our own again and spent several hours there before getting hammered in the late afternoon making for Porto Rafti. We are slow learners. Again it was only a short 2 hour passage, but we are sick of the strong winds that blow most days – most of the time from where we are headed. To be fair we have had some wonderful sailing as well. Just not in large enough portions.

Porto Rafti is a delight. Smallish village with good shop, tavernas and a regular bus service 1.5hours to Athens. Additional battery charging is required and we set off for Pireus (suburb of Athens where most ferries leave from) to buy a solar panel. The journey involved changing buses at Markopolou, transiting to the underground in Athens and a train to Pireus.

On the underground someone decided they needed my wallet more than I. Did not feel a thing. My shirt was over my shorts pocket, but the wallet left my possession. Someone else now has a NZ drivers licence, Auckland Library card and 3 credit cards plus about 30E for their trouble. Their need must have been greater than mine.  The main nuisance is that I now have to wait 10-15 working days for replacement credit cards. Porto Rafti is not a bad place to wait and we will sail around this area and visit Athens again to see the tourist sights. It is still bloody windy. If only I had bought a wind generator – then the wind would be sure to have died. One positive affirmation about the wind at night is that the mosquitoes cannot pay us a flying visit. On nights when it is calm, they delight in finding the yacht some distance from shore. We are now armed with citronella candles (useless), Raid coils (hard on the nostrils), Raid spray, and a fly swat.

Anchorage Mykynos

Siros

Mykynos To Siros

The wind finally died enough to go ashore and bus in to Mykynos town. It was a short trip and interesting to wander the very narrow streets thronged with tourists. Most of the shops obviously catered for tourists and we wended our way down to the port. Took 3/4 of an hour in the Post Office queuing to post one letter, then finding our way back past the galleries and restaurants/ tavernas. mykynos is very expensive. (Pita Gyros - Greek equivalent of our fish n chips fast food) was 10E compared to 1.60E in other islands. However, we managed a milkshake in town before going back to the anchorage and having a meal at the restaurant on the beach. The restaurant was full of under 25's very subdued - relaxing, swimming and sunbathing getting ready to party again in the evening.

We left Mykynos for Tinos - a short trip but again we had head winds so motored all the way. In Tinos town we Medmoored to the town quay right in the centre of town and had power and water.  It was very pleasant to be back in the midst of civilisation and to be able to get on and off
Moondance at will. Spent a few days there and took a bus tour of the island (whole day)

We got a weather window of little wind and set off for Poto Rafti our destination in Athens but it was not to be. A frost plug leaked in the engine and we lost the freshwater coolant. Only 10 miles from Siros, we sailed to Ermoupolis where we still are. The engine is fixed but the bloody wind is blowing 30knots again from the North. Directly from where we are heading. We are in an incomplete marina. No power or water but no charges either. Today we walked around Ermouplois. It is built on two hills with large churches at the top of the hills. Had coffee and pastries on the waterfront before tackling the climb to the top of the first hill. That was enough. Downhill all the way we walked back to the marina and picked up groceries on the way.

Mykynos

Mykynos

Mykynos

Mykynos

Mykynos

First Pita Gyros