Sailing with Moondance : The Adventure Continues

Leaving Sounion and the Temple of Posideon we headed for Hydra. Had a look in the town basin where yachts were anchored (Med moored) 3 deep to the quay. There is a pleasant bay ½ a mile away so we headed there. (Mandraki Bay). A few yachts were anchored on both sides of the bay and we were fortunate to select a spot right at the head of the bay and took a long line to a small quay. It was the best spot in the bay and we had it to ourselves until a charter catamaran thought he could share the spot and dumped masses of chain on the bottom right in front of us. We objected and he said he would move a long way away. Upped chain and anchor and moved about 100 metres. I had 30 metres of chain out so was still not happy but conditions were good (no wind) and we survived the night. Took a walk in to Hydra. (1/2 a nautical mile is a long way by land) had a look around and got the water taxi back.

The anchorage was so good we stayed an extra day and went back in to town by dinghy. When we returned there was a Sailing Holidays flotilla (15 boats) mooring up next to us. I have worked for Sailing Holidays in a past life and we went and spoke to the English skipper, Kiwi engineer, Kiwi hostess plus an extra kiwi teacher on holiday from London. All good. Don’t think we would have been so happy without the kiwi connection, but it was also a day when the charter guests organised their own dinner ashore so it was quiet – they usually all descend on one taverna in the evening and from experience it can get very raucous.

We spent the day in Hydra (it is a small town) enjoying the atmosphere, looking around, watching the young & beautiful and observing the antics of yachts arriving and leaving the harbour. People diving on anchors that had become entangled etc. Raewyn found a hair stylist and I found the museum.

Leaving Hydra conditions were good and it was a big day to Monemvasia. Had a look at the “marina” which appeared to be full and was shallow so we left, motored around the headland that is Monemvasia and anchored in a small bay about 12 miles away. The meltimi blew again for the next 2 days and we occupied ourselves reading and finding leaks in the dinghy (an ongoing process). The wind is more a nuisance than anything. We anchor in sheltered spots and there are no waves. Just wind gusting down off the high hills. Once we reach land the wind abates and all is fine. We took a taxi in to Monemvasia and had a wonderful day wandering around the old walled fortified town. Like Hydra there are no vehicles and all transport is by horse, donkey, mule, or handcart. It seems handcarts are most popular and we saw all supplies being moved including tourists’ luggage. There are boutique hotels in the town. It is very touristy, but has a homely feel about it and is certainly not overrun with tourists. We walked to the Church on the top of the hill of the “old town” and wandered through the largely restored commercial quarter of the lower town.

Our next sailing day was around the first cape in the south of Greece where we anchored in a delightful bay on the island of Elafinisos. A pleasant afternoon swimming in the clear water. There were also a few other yachts in the two large bays. Probably waiting for good conditions to round the cape to the East. We were going West. In the evening the breeze dropped and a roll started in the bay so we went further round the island to the West and found a well sheltered anchorage. Happy to leave the rolly anchorage to the other yachts. Following this, we continued on past the next cape and in the late afternoon the wind came from the NW (directly in front of us) so we headed for a small town called Koroni. I sometimes wonder just who is in control as when we leave an anchorage we seldom end up where we intend (Plan A) so always have a Plan B and sometimes C.

Anyway, Koroni was a surprise. The anchorage was sheltered and we were under a Venetian fort. A lovely walk around the fort which included a Greek Orthodox church (they are all very ornate) and a monastery. So pleased we made the detour and spent the extra time. In the afternoon we headed off again to round the last cape, but again the wind came up late afternoon and we anchored for the night in a sheltered bay at the cape. Again, as for most of this trip, we were on our own until a local fisherman laid his nets directly behind us. The stop worked well (5 miles and the wrong side of the cape from where we intended).

This morning all was calm and we have motored to a large bay near the town of Pilos. Again not going in to the town or marina. Raewyn prefers to find an anchorage near a beach, on our own. It saves the bother of tying up to a town wharf or marina and suits me.