Tuesday, 27 June 2017

Crotone to Corfu


When the wind had died down enough to make conditions pleasant we walked around Crotone, visited the inevitable castle which was interesting. There was a research library included with historical and recent books. The castle itself was also interesting with moats and parapets – the usual same same but different.

Carrying on we walked through the narrow winding lanes typical of Italian towns to the main shopping centre then back to Moondance. An unexpected interlude as we were only there for shelter and not expecting to visit the town which looked uninspiring from the marina.

Leaving Crotone at 5am we had one of our best sails at 7=7.5 knots and arrived at Santa Maria de Luca (the cape at the heel of Italy) at 7.15pm. Again the Scotsmans anchorage outside the marina. The town looks interesting and well worth a visit. Maybe next time?

Another sunrise and we are headed for Corfu. These two passages – Crotone to Maria de Luca and on to Corfu are the longest of this trip. A tall ship passed between the sunrise and us but we were too far away for really good camera shots. It was a spectacular scene though. The rest of the trip was uneventful until we had our biggest dolphin encounter just before Corfu.   Carrying on we arrived at a sheltered bay – Tavernas on the beach, and just in time for a swim.

We had arranged to meet George and Rosie at the NAOK yacht club Corfu the next day, so set off and on arrival tried to anchor in a very busy small harbour. What a disaster. Got the anchor chain caught in the large chain on the bottom.  Sorted that out with a rope, lost the small rope that was attached to the anchor ball, and buggered off while the going was still good. Had a look at free anchoring but eventually headed for a marina in Corfu town. Signs all around saying no mooring or anchoring and there was one other yacht there with a Greek flag. Anyway, we encountered no problems and many yachts made use of the anchorage after seeing our mast. This is typical of anchorages everywhere. So, we were not alone.

George and Rosie arrived by ferry from Bari at 5am, watched the sunrise and went to bed in their van parked 100m from Moondance.

Our “marina” was very close to the large markets in the old town of Corfu. We got lost many times exploring. Found the laundry, lost it, found it again too late 3 days later. George and Rosie joined us for some forced marching around the markets, then a route march to find a non existent laundry. Hungry and very thirsty we continued our walk to a harbourside restaurant that just happened to sell cold beer and pit gyros.  George’s introduction to Greek food – 2 pita gyros. The refreshingly cold beers kept coming. A big day for Rosie and George starting with an overnight ferry trip and ending around 11.30 the next night.

Rosie and George took off for an explore and dropped me off at the port authorities where I checked in and renewed my cruising permit. Bit of a palaver. 1 1/4hrs at the port police to get checked in, then customs 1hr to get the cruising booklet, then back to poret police to get the booklet stamped. Total cost 45Euros.

Raewyn went to Vodafone to sort out slow internet. The English speaking techie was away for the weekend, so it was back on Monday.

That night we had dinner at Café Yali on the waterfront 20metres from Moondance. Lovely.


Monday – Vodafone sorted and everything else done we left the marina and went to a secluded bay in Komenno, just outside the marina. Well it used to be secluded. Although we were the only yacht, there was Greek music coming from a resort on the beach and paragliders etc around. The music was good and we enjoyed listening to bouzoukis, singing  etc.

After a pleasant few hours we headed close to the marina (Scotsmans anchorage) where there are quite a few boats. We dinghied ashore to meet Rosie and George at George’s Chicken Shack. A favourite restaurant with – try to guess (great Pita Gyros) George had two, I had one.

Tall ship at sunrise




Castle Crotone

Castle Crotone

Castle Crotone

Research Library

Friends, Romans, Countrymen. Arrividevirci Italia

Castle - Crotone

Crotone

Crotone

Crotone

Sunset Café Yali Corfu harbour 

Corfu pavement

Georges Chicken Shack. George Tony Raewyn Rosie
                                  We are still in the Scotsman anchorage on another glorious day.


Fishing Boat Capri


Leaving Crotone

    

Sunday, 18 June 2017

Capri to Crotone


Capri was as far north as we decided to go on this trip, so after leaving Capri marina (Scotsmans anchorage) we motored to the other side of the island to anchor amongst the rich, famous, and wannabees. We had a very relaxing day doing mothing after the hectic few prior days. Just sorted out the catamaran mentioned in the last post.

Continuing back down the coast we stopped at marina di scario (Scotsmans anchorage again). This was a quaint little place worth visiting as it was a bit off our track. Nice to see the village with its painted buildings and it was another quiet anchorage. We have been spoilt with all our anchorages so far being calm and quiet. The fire on the hill was threatening houses and looked spectacular. No evidence of a fire brigade in attendance, but the next morning apart from smoke rising it was hard to know there had been a fire at all. During the day a dragonfly hitched a ride for quite some time. Spent most of the day on the lifelines, flitting around the yacht and landing back on the lifelines, or at one time resting on Raewyn’s finger where they had an interesting conversation.

Our next stop was Cetraro which we had visited on the way north. An interesting anchorage again outside the marina with the typical nearby village built on the hill. During this passage we have managed to get some sailing in which has been nice.

Tropea marina was next. WE actually stayed one night in the marina and replenished supplies and did the laundry, got diesel and had a “normal” shower – not necessarily in that order. It was 200 steps up to the town. A challenge on a hot day, but good exercise. There were quite a few interesting touristy shops (an oxymoron) and we got some souvenirs along with the essential groceries.

Vulcano was not too far out of our way south, so we called in again to get some of the vocanic rock crystals. Again the smell of sulphur pervaded, but the wind was in the right direction and it was not too invasive unless passing the mud pools which are full of people (mostly large) morning till night.

The straits of Messina was our next stop. One of the few places where there is a current in the Med. Our anchorage was just off the shore – the water is very deep in most places. The wind &current kept us either offshore or parallel to the shore and I hoped it would stay that way. In the evening and night small fishing boats passed very close by. A bit of a concern if they were not keeping a good look out. No one hit us and we did not swing in too the shore. We left the anchorage before sunrise and headed in to the straits proper. There were whirlpools, currents, upwellings, and then ferries. The sunrise was spectacular and fortunately being early in the morning, the ferries were not too numerous. There were two large cruise ships and a couple of container ships to avoid. Again no drama – the current was reminiscent of Indonesia and I wondered why we had not encountered these conditions on the way north.

Capri Anchorage

Lunch Italian Style - Capri

Drinks Trolley Italian Style

Capri Marina. Moondance at top and beyond marina

Street scene Capri

Sir Dragonfly

Typical Italian Hill Village - Acciaroli

Tropea from marina

Marina from Tropea

Tropea

Tropea



Sunrise - Messina
Rocella Ionica was our next stop, again in the Scotsman’s anchorage just outside the marina and again a quiet night.

A big day motoring saw us at Crotone with 30knots forecast for the next two days. We are still here waiting for a weather window to make the 72 nautical mile trip across to the heel of Italy.     

Monday, 12 June 2017

Amalfi Coast Capri and beyond


Leaving Stromboli, we headed for the mainland arriving at Cetaro where we anchored outside the marina and had a good nights sleep. The following day we made our way north past the town of Diamante. I am sure there is a reason for the name and it looked like an interesting place. We ended up at a sheltered beach resort where we anchored for the night amongst moored craft and just off a beach laden down with rent deck chairs and umbrellas. Thankfully there was no beach disco.
Acciaroli was our next stop and again we anchored outside the town quay and went ashore for supplies. First on the list was a drink at a trattoria. A very pleasant bar where we had a drink accompanied by complimentary olives and bread bites tasting of aniseed. We followed that with a course of bruschetta and another round of drinks. Again the bruschetta was complimentary – or at least we were not charged for it. The bruschetta included bufalo mozzarella – an acquired taste and has a poached eff round shape. Following the drinks we refreshed our supplies from a supermarket, panateria (baker) and the butcher.
We then went in search of a restaurant. Seeing a likely empty restaurant with a reasonable menu we selected a table inside for two. On being seated, we were advised that no table was available as “we were busy”. We approached 3 more empty restaurants with the same results. Thinking that we must have some obvious leprosy, or were underdressed, or the backpack defined us as tourists and no one could be bothered with tourists, we made one last gallant effort and were shown to a table for six. Again we were the only patrons. By the time we had ordered our meal, the restaurant was half full and a queue was forming at the door. During the time it took to eat our meal there was a long queue with people waiting for tables – and the restaurant was capable of seating in excess of 100 people.   I had ordered hamburger and chips. Raewyn had Gnocci. The hamburger came with no bun. Just 200g of hamburger meat, a little bit of lettuce and tomato, with a slab of grilled mozzarella. Nothing like a double whopper with cheese.  On our way home we checked the other restaurants. They were all full and some had a large screen with football showing.
We headed for Amalfi arriving mid afternoon. Anchoring on our own we had a bit of a dinghy ride in to the town and left the dinghy at the marina. The town is mostly waterfront with lots of narrow streets, stairs, walkways, alleys. Everywhere a Kodak moment. We caught the tourist hop on/hop off bus to Ravello, walked around the interesting town and caught the bus back. What a ripoff. Local bus would have done the same thing but without the earplugs for music and brief commentary about lemons and terrace gardens.
Feeling adventurous we caught a tourist bus to Sorrento where we had lunch and a walk around the town with views over Naples Bay and the town marina way below. Again we opted for a local bus for the return ride although by this time we had qualified for a discount on the tourist bus. The roads are narrow, winding and with large drop offs and many tunnels. The driver had been practicing and thought he was at Monte Carlo with a formula 1 car. One guy was sick and one lady loudly proclaimed that she wished to live another day. We were too scared to speak as we rushed past Positano and were very pleased to exit the bus back in Amalfi. It was the bus trip that contributed to alcoholic drinks costing more than our meal at a very pleasant outdoor café in Amalfi.
Back down the coast to Salerno (a short trip) to fill with diesel and check in to the marina for two nights. We needed supplies and wanted to visit Pompeii. Vodafone to top up the modem – of course we had to wait 2 hours until 4.30, so had a good look around the shopping district which was also closed. No one on the streets until about 4.00 when the place slowly became alive.
Found a supermarket and butcher on our way back to Moondance. Filled a shopping trolley and pushed it 3 kilometres back to the marina, then returned it to the Carrefour Express from whence it came.
Next day we headed to the train station to catch a train to Pompeii. I needed to post four cards so detoured in to the Post Italiane. It took 4 people to look at the cards and postcards. One to weigh them, look up on a computer the charges to NZ, put them through a cancellede stamp machine and charge me 2Euro more than the stamps I had purchased at Amalfi.
In the meantime Raewyn had found a bus to Pompeii leaving from outside the Post Office so we climbed aboard. We were supposed to have purchased tickets but the driver did not mind and drove off with us in the local bus to Pompeii. It is about 40k from Salerno and went through every back street between Salerno, Naples and Pompeii to arrive a short distance from the archaeological site.    

A day at Pompeii.
Pompeii is a large site and we started off at the Theatre (every Roman/Greek ancient site has one) then walked down excavated streets past what were the remains of houses – many with kitchens intact, and some with frescos and wall paintings. It was obvious some of the wealthy of Pompeii lived very well. We caught quite a few guided groups and heard the stories of the houses. Continuing on, we reached the Coliseum and information centre. The day was hot, roads and houses were all stone which accentuated the heat. We walked past what had been bakeries and trading houses to the far end of the site where we exited after viewing plaster casts of people caught in the eruption of Vesuvius - formed by the cavities in the lava.
From the exit we found the train station, however it was the train station to Sorrento. Helped by a friendly bus driver, we got a ride the 2k to the train station to Salerno, purchased and validated tickets then returned to Salerno. About 40 minutes instead of 2 hours by bus.
Raewyn’s fitbit recorded 19,457 steps that day – and it was hot most of the time.
8 June we booked Moondance out of Italy with the Guardia Costeria and headed for Capri at the end of the Amalfi peninsula. We anchored amongst tripper boats who were passing the famous rocks of Capri and coming to view rock caves nearby. In the evening we had the bay to ourselves although it was a bit rolly. Next day we motored around the island and anchored outside Marina Grande. Fast ferries and tripper boats made conditions rolly. We got the dinghy and outboard launched and went in to the marina.

A day in Capri
Queuing for the short funicular ride from the marina/ferry terminal to the town took a while. Thousands of people visit Capri by ferry each day. We reached the end of the ride and queued again for a bus to Anacapri where we had pizza for lunch then visited the Villa San Michelle. An interesting house and grounds built in the early 20th century.
Arriving back in the main town we had a good look around the shops and included nearby gardens.
The dinghy trip back to Moondance was interesting dodging large fast ferries but was accomplished with no drama except for having to clamber on to a pitching yacht.
We escaped without injury or incident and went back to our anchorage on the other side of the island and anchored among the many super yachts. A calm anchorage in which we stayed and relaxed for the next day. A catamaran with one yacht either side and charter guests ashore anchored too close  but we sorted that out again just inconvenience, no drama.


Swordfish in net


Swordfish boat. Note long prow in front to spear fish. Lookout up high in crows nest

Water spout Vulcano Island


Stromboli

Rovello

Coloseum Pompeii

Mural Pompeii



Positano

Rocks Capri

Lunch Capri

Fast Food delivery Capri

Capri Marina

Capri



                     

Thursday, 1 June 2017

On to the Aeolian Islands


Leaving Siracusa was the beginning of cruising. A very short day to Port Augusta, a large port where we found a quiet bay for the night. Following that, it was back to Naxos and Taormina Bay. This time we anchored with other yachts just outside of Naxos and under Taormina. We were a bit intimidated by the heads of European Union + USA going on above us.

Next day we ventured in to Taormina. Still lots of Police, Military bands, officials etc around the place, and it was overrun with tourists. Large photocopiers were being moved out of town, media were non existent and a few accommodation tents were being dismantled. We found many of the places we had visited last year were quiet and it was pleasant to enjoy the views over a pastry and milkshakes. 

Having replenished supplies in Naxos, we headed north and in to the straits of Messina. All very ho hum until we reached the final stretches when it became bedlam with ferries and commercial traffic. Still we had no problems and headed towards the Aeolian Islands. Leaving Messina, and in shallow water we followed a swordfish boat. It spotted a swordfish and began yelling at us to get our attention. We slowed down and watched as a dinghy was launched with a net which it towed to surround the swordfish. Much yelling, banging the sides of the boat and splashing water ensued to wake the swordfish and drive it in to the net. This was successful and we watched as the net was brought on board by man hands over quite a period of time. Eventually the swordfish was brought  on board and we continued our journey.

Arriving at Isola Vulcano we anchored amongst other yachts on a lee shore. It was settled weather and we were in shallow water, but I still do not like being on a lee shore. Many hydrofoils and ferries came and went in a short period of time including one large vessel which I guess was carrying water.

After dark and in bed there was a pervading smell of rotten eggs. We thought some inconsiderate cruiser had emptied their holding tank. The smell did not go away and we thought maybe the water carrier was taking on sewage from the island. That night I dreamt that Auckland had a sewage problem and the mayor should do something about it. The smell stayed all night until I closed the hatch. (Why did it take so long to think of that?)

Next morning we observed water “boiling up” near us and going ashore past the mud pools it became obvious the smell was sulphuretted hydrogen (sulphur – Rotorua). People were bathing in a large mud bath/pool.  Continuing on to the ferry wharf we passed lots of yellow sulphur rock with steam coming out at many points.

The village was pleasant, well kept and obviously oriented towards the tourist market. Vehicle hire places and shops selling volcanic rock and gemstones abounded. Some of the rock was split in half to reveal crystals inside. Tourists were brought to the island by many of the hydrofoils operating.

We left at lunchtime and elected not to go to the largest Island – Lipari, but to continue to Stromboli where we anchored in a pleasant spot underneath the mildly active volcano. Leaving again early the next morning we looked back to see more activity from the volcano belching black smoke.

Taormina

Taormina

Taormina

Taormina

Gelato - any flavour

Sunset

Sea Water - cold Isoa Vulcano

Isola Vulcano

Ragusa

Ragusa

Straits of Messina

Straits of Messina

Swordfish Boat. Swordfish speared from bow extension

Swordfish in the net

Stromboli

Sunrise

Stromboli in action