Sailing with Moondance : On to the Aeolian Islands

Leaving Siracusa was the beginning of cruising. A very short day to Port Augusta, a large port where we found a quiet bay for the night. Following that, it was back to Naxos and Taormina Bay. This time we anchored with other yachts just outside of Naxos and under Taormina. We were a bit intimidated by the heads of European Union + USA going on above us.

Next day we ventured in to Taormina. Still lots of Police, Military bands, officials etc around the place, and it was overrun with tourists. Large photocopiers were being moved out of town, media were non existent and a few accommodation tents were being dismantled. We found many of the places we had visited last year were quiet and it was pleasant to enjoy the views over a pastry and milkshakes.

Having replenished supplies in Naxos, we headed north and in to the straits of Messina. All very ho hum until we reached the final stretches when it became bedlam with ferries and commercial traffic. Still we had no problems and headed towards the Aeolian Islands. Leaving Messina, and in shallow water we followed a swordfish boat. It spotted a swordfish and began yelling at us to get our attention. We slowed down and watched as a dinghy was launched with a net which it towed to surround the swordfish. Much yelling, banging the sides of the boat and splashing water ensued to wake the swordfish and drive it in to the net. This was successful and we watched as the net was brought on board by man hands over quite a period of time. Eventually the swordfish was brought on board and we continued our journey.

Arriving at Isola Vulcano we anchored amongst other yachts on a lee shore. It was settled weather and we were in shallow water, but I still do not like being on a lee shore. Many hydrofoils and ferries came and went in a short period of time including one large vessel which I guess was carrying water.

After dark and in bed there was a pervading smell of rotten eggs. We thought some inconsiderate cruiser had emptied their holding tank. The smell did not go away and we thought maybe the water carrier was taking on sewage from the island. That night I dreamt that Auckland had a sewage problem and the mayor should do something about it. The smell stayed all night until I closed the hatch. (Why did it take so long to think of that?)

Next morning we observed water “boiling up” near us and going ashore past the mud pools it became obvious the smell was sulphuretted hydrogen (sulphur – Rotorua). People were bathing in a large mud bath/pool. Continuing on to the ferry wharf we passed lots of yellow sulphur rock with steam coming out at many points.

The village was pleasant, well kept and obviously oriented towards the tourist market. Vehicle hire places and shops selling volcanic rock and gemstones abounded. Some of the rock was split in half to reveal crystals inside. Tourists were brought to the island by many of the hydrofoils operating.

We left at lunchtime and elected not to go to the largest Island – Lipari, but to continue to Stromboli where we anchored in a pleasant spot underneath the mildly active volcano. Leaving again early the next morning we looked back to see more activity from the volcano belching black smoke.