Capri was as far north as we decided to go on this trip, so
after leaving Capri marina (Scotsmans anchorage) we motored to the other side
of the island to anchor amongst the rich, famous, and wannabees. We had a very
relaxing day doing mothing after the hectic few prior days. Just sorted out the
catamaran mentioned in the last post.
Continuing back down the coast we stopped at marina di
scario (Scotsmans anchorage again). This was a quaint little place worth
visiting as it was a bit off our track. Nice to see the village with its
painted buildings and it was another quiet anchorage. We have been spoilt with
all our anchorages so far being calm and quiet. The fire on the hill was
threatening houses and looked spectacular. No evidence of a fire brigade in
attendance, but the next morning apart from smoke rising it was hard to know
there had been a fire at all. During the day a dragonfly hitched a ride for
quite some time. Spent most of the day on the lifelines, flitting around the
yacht and landing back on the lifelines, or at one time resting on Raewyn’s
finger where they had an interesting conversation.
Our next stop was Cetraro which we had visited on the way
north. An interesting anchorage again outside the marina with the typical
nearby village built on the hill. During this passage we have managed to get
some sailing in which has been nice.
Tropea marina was next. WE actually stayed one night in the
marina and replenished supplies and did the laundry, got diesel and had a “normal”
shower – not necessarily in that order. It was 200 steps up to the town. A
challenge on a hot day, but good exercise. There were quite a few interesting touristy
shops (an oxymoron) and we got some souvenirs along with the essential
groceries.
Vulcano was not too far out of our way south, so we called
in again to get some of the vocanic rock crystals. Again the smell of sulphur
pervaded, but the wind was in the right direction and it was not too invasive
unless passing the mud pools which are full of people (mostly large) morning
till night.
The straits of Messina was our next stop. One of the few
places where there is a current in the Med. Our anchorage was just off the
shore – the water is very deep in most places. The wind ¤t kept us
either offshore or parallel to the shore and I hoped it would stay that way. In
the evening and night small fishing boats passed very close by. A bit of a
concern if they were not keeping a good look out. No one hit us and we did not
swing in too the shore. We left the anchorage before sunrise and headed in to
the straits proper. There were whirlpools, currents, upwellings, and then
ferries. The sunrise was spectacular and fortunately being early in the
morning, the ferries were not too numerous. There were two large cruise ships
and a couple of container ships to avoid. Again no drama – the current was
reminiscent of Indonesia and I wondered why we had not encountered these
conditions on the way north.
A big day motoring saw us at Crotone with 30knots forecast
for the next two days. We are still here waiting for a weather window to make
the 72 nautical mile trip across to the heel of Italy.
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